Dangerous razors and razor accessories
I would take about 30-35% of foaming oils, because foam is the main criterion by which soap will be evaluated. If possible, you can take the main blowing babassu, if not - coconut or palm kernel.
Be sure to add 5% of the foaming agents castor oil - it will help the bubbles burst slower and foam will turn out many times more.
From liquid oils I will advise olive oil - its slimness, which is usually perceived as a flaw, will be most welcome. How much - see the prescription, at least 50% is possible.
If there is, be sure to add laurel and him, 5-10%, they will have a disinfecting and healing effect
Will fit perfectly into the recipe Shea Butter - it gives a very gentle, fine creamy foam. I do not limit you as a percentage - it is possible and a lot, if any.
Well complement the recipe cacao butter - thanks to him, the soap will be harder and slower to wash off.
By the way, the recipe itself can be made on a mixture of alkalis, taking 10-20% KOH, this will also add a soft and slip soap. If you make such a soap in a bowl or in a jar, then you can not worry about the final hardness.
Instead of water, you can take a decoction of flaxseeds, a string, calendula, eucalyptus, chamomile or mint. Hydrolates or milk are also good.
Shaving Soap Supplements for Men
- Lemon acid will give conditioning properties, I think 1% will be enough
- Lactic acid when interacting with alkali forms sodium lactate - a powerful moisturizing asset. I would add 2%
- Lanolin can be included in the recipe itself, or added to the fat. It is often added to felting soap, because it gives the wool softness. I think the analogy is clear. I would take 5%
- Menthol will give a cooling effect. The main thing is not to overdo it, 1% will be enough.
- Kaolin and other clays will provide better glide. Can be added to water for an alkaline solution of about 1-2%
- Silk cocoons - An excellent supplement for absolutely any soap. You can take 2%.
- Sorbitol or honey can also be added to water for an alkaline solution, very slightly, at 0.5% each. Like all sugar-containing additives, they stabilize the foam. Want to add more? 5-10% sorbitol or 2-3% honey can be added to the soap in the hot way after the gel.
- Propolis, Licorice, Ginseng Extract Alcohol can also be used as an additive at the end of the soap in a hot way. The percentage of input is better to look at the packaging.
- Glycine similar in effect to silk cocoons. Dissolve 1-2% in boiling water and add at the end, before putting it into the mold
In a hot paste, you can add calendula or chamomile oil extracts or laurel oil to the soap in the hot method.
From essential oils to shaving soap, tea tree, fennel, lavender, basil, rosemary, bergamot are suitable
This is a list of possible additives from which you can choose your favorite (thanks Karina Matevosyan for help in compiling it). Please do not add all at once to one soap :)
Re: Making Shaving Soaps
Message [email protected] »Nov 08, 2012 12:42 PM
Re: Making Shaving Soaps
Message SF »Nov 08, 2012 1:40 pm
Re: Making Shaving Soaps
Message Bwman »Jul 28, 2014 3:56 pm
Re: Making Shaving Soaps
Message Bwman »Jul 28, 2014 9:08 pm
Re: Making Shaving Soaps
Message GOODWIN »Jul 29, 2014 8:53 am
Re: Making Shaving Soaps
Message Bwman »Jul 29, 2014 11:48 am
quote = "GOODWIN" Tar it yes, a wonderful thing. Only with the Neva cosmetics ambiguity. / quote
Just the same, the composition of this soap NK did not alert. At me all home, having tried, recognized its merits. It would be better, of course, to cook the soap from scratch yourself, and already poison it with tar. Maybe in August I’ll do it if the heat doesn’t finish.
So, I tried today the ascetic soap made yesterday on the basis of households and tar. Before shaving, I soaped his face and made a compress with a towel to understand what was the result with the skin. And everything is OK with the skin, the compress was a success. He put the foam with a brush on his face - it turned out to be a creamy foam. Shaving was comfortable, the machine glided over the skin very well. Affected by the fat that I introduced into the soap - base oils and a moisturizer for the face. I would say that you can change the percentage of soap - I did somewhere equally tar and household. You can tarry more - he has a generally outstanding foam, even if they just wash their hair or put on a washcloth - it is thick, dense, glides well - i.e. all the qualities required in shaving. And the smell. Well, the smell that is, that is. For this, the skin is healthy, and after shaving a great feeling of cleanliness.
Re: Making Shaving Soaps
Message lyaxeyka_73 »Nov 11, 2014 6:24 AM
22% stearinka, then oil with foamy properties (babasu, coconut or palm kernel) should be slightly less in weight
20% (4: 1 beef fat = 400 grams + palm kernel oil = 100 grams) - in my opinion, it’s quite "ideal". I saponify with sodium, later I add foam oil and stearic acid (in about the same ratio
1: 1, but a little more stearinks) and saponified with caustic potassium = the soap is ready, only additives are needed.
very approximate composition (really cooked, in a different volume only):
beef fat - 400 grams
palm kernel oil - 100 grams
caustic potash saponification:
palm kernel oil - 240 grams
stearic acid - 260 grams
. for convenience, I took 50/50 potassium and sodium soaps, the potassium part can be made 245/255 - the shift towards stearic acid is small so that it is.
the whole process is about 6-8 hours, near the stove
2 hours: weigh - melt fatty acids, weigh - dissolve alkali, mix - stir - watch the process. sodium is boiled for 2 hours, potash - 3 hours.
the finished soap is classified by unsaponified oils, the so-called “relieve”: 0-5% - household and (or) shampoo, 5-10% - toilet, up to 12-13% - baby, there is still saline up to 15%, but we need toilet.
the fat (superfat - "SF" super fat) I counted - 0% for sodium + 3-5% for potassium immediately in the calculator and then added 50-70 grams (
7-9% sf) of some kind of fat-containing: jojoba oil (called liquid wax), lanolin (sometimes called wool wax), vegetable waxes (apricot, avocado, rice bran or flower - there are many, but not carnauba or chandelier, but bee it is possible, but not all SF) and (or) shea butter, cocoa, aloe butter (coconut with aloe vera fraction). - here rather the cosmetic preference of the user should be.
glycerin must be added - 5% is quite normal (I used to read up to 15% in the old book for sticks, it seems), the “moisturizing” component mixes well with water, it is also good for skin and foam. soap loving water, including because of glycerin "likes to drink." it can be introduced into soap making at the stage. into the alkali, or before the alkali is dissolved. alkali solution - into water (not necessarily water, tinctures, decoctions, beer.) dry, measured to 0.1% by a calculator, alkali, and not vice versa.
there is such a concept as "chelators" - for soap making it is important to use with "hard" water, they will bind calcium and magnesium salts. 3-5% of citric acid in the preparation of the alkali solution should be dissolved + 0.6 grams of caustic soda for each gram of acid added (in our example - 1 kg of the original fatty acids 50 grams of citric acid + 30 grams of NaOH). I prefer to use the additional component “lactate” (described as a moisturizer), obtained from lactic acid, an additional alkali of 0.36 g is taken on it. per 1 g of acid (for a kilogram of raw materials 3 + 3% milk and lemons = 30 g. MK + 30 g. LC, dissolve in water until the alkali dissolves, and NaOH according to the calculator + 10.8 g. (per 30 g. MK) + 18 gr. (Per 30 gr. LC). The solution process is approximately the following - water is weighed (or another liquid - described above), lactic and citric acids (weighed) are dissolved, glycerin is added (this kind can be poured by eye, approximately or tablespoons measuring out with spoons) and then it is poured out slowly or in portions for 3-4 times and the alkali previously weighed is dissolved.
the sodium part is boiled in a water bath under the lid, stirring is enough 1-2 times, after 2 hours the palm kernel + stearink is added, melt and mix (without fanaticism - it will not work completely homogeneous), then the potassium alkali solution is poured, after an hour you can remove the lid and cook for another 2 hours, stirring more often, to evaporate unnecessary (anyway, then dry, getting rid of excess) moisture.
mixing fat oils with an alkali solution is best done with a blender - better and an order of magnitude faster process will occur.
something like that, dear, there is a hot soap making process.
I’ll mention - overweight with solid ingredients (you need to pre-melt or toss into the mass and mix after melting), additionally cosmetic ingredients and aromas (whether it’s essential oils and (or) cosmetic perfumes) are introduced at the final stage, before layout, often - already and removed from the "bath" (there is a majority - the requirement not to heat above how many degrees).
Initially, in ancient times, all men used only shaving soap, no other means at that time were supposed at all. Today, experts note that this method is justified and in fact can become a worthy competition to many cosmetics. Despite the fact that the soap needs to be prepared according to the recipe, and after that, during the application, soap with a brush to apply on the skin, it has much more advantages than disadvantages.
Pros and cons
The main advantage of using shaving soap is the fact that most shaving cosmetics work superficially on the skin of the face. While the soap envelops the structure of the hairs, softens the skin of the face, as well as the bristles, disinfects the epidermis from the pathogenic flora, ensures maximum glide of the machine during shaving. Thanks to the soap, the bristles become pliable for shaving, and the skin is protected from irritation.
The key to choosing a shaving product is its environmental friendliness. And in this criterion, an ordinary do-it-yourself shaving soap is 100% compliant. The only disadvantage of soap can be considered the fact that before shaving it will take some time to prepare it yourself, to froth it with a brush. Shaving soap is sometimes not suitable for dry skin types, as it does not sufficiently moisturize the skin.
How to make soap at home?
Today, despite the great popularity of cosmetics and a huge variety of brands and manufacturers, many men prefer to make their own shaving soaps from improvised products. During the preparation, a soap making procedure is supposed, during which various components for moisturizing, nourishing and disinfecting the facial skin will be added to the soap base.
What ingredients are needed?
First of all, a man needs to decide which components he will prepare the shaving product from.
There may be several options:
- recipe from scratch, where the soap base will be prepared on its own,
- a recipe using a finished soap base,
- recipe using toilet or laundry soap.
Vegetable oils, such as tea tree oil, coconut or olive, peach or lavender oil, can be added components. Essential oils are also used, thanks to which the shaving soap acquires a pleasant aroma. According to recipes, the use of honey, cosmetic clay glycerin and other useful components is expected.
To prepare shaving soap, a man can use two recipes - from scratch and using a ready-made soap base. The second option is more popular, because thanks to valuable components, as a result, a man gets a cream soap. This recipe is recommended for use by men with dry and sensitive skin.
- Cream soap recipe with a soap base. For its preparation, the following components are taken:
- 100 gr. soapy basics,
- 20-25 drops of lavender oil,
- 10 drops of ether of bay leaf and tea tree,
- 5 ml coconut oil
- a teaspoon of honey.
Now they take a soap base, bring it to a liquid state in a water bath, add melted coconut oil. After that, honey is added to the warm mass, it is well mixed and ethers are added. The finished product is placed in molds and left to solidify.
- Recipe from scratch. To prepare such a shaving soap, it is necessary to prepare the following components:
- 110 gr. alkalis
- 2 tablespoons of white clay,
- 80 gr. palm, olive and coconut oil,
- 5 drops of rosemary and peppermint esters,
- 120 gr. glycerin
- 300 gr stearic acid
- 300 ml of water.
Coconut and palm oils need to be melted, then add other oils to them. Water is heated in a container, an oily mixture is poured into it and everything is whipped with a blender. After this, alkali, glycerin and acid are added, slightly heated (about half an hour), but not boiled. The mass should become transparent and thick. At the end, ethers and clay are added, the finished product is placed in molds until it hardens.
Oils in both recipes moisturize the skin, help soften and nourish it. Natural components are not aggressive, but on the contrary, in every way they relax and soothe the skin of the field of each shaving procedure.
The first rule for making homemade shaving soaps is to act strictly according to instructions. Essential oils should not be added to hot mixtures; it is better to prepare soap in a ceramic bowl. It is only necessary to heat and melt the oils in a water bath. All components are best mixed with a wooden stick or spoon. If a man has a predisposition to allergies, the number of esters must be reduced.
What is the difference between regular soap and shaving soap?
Many men make the mistake of believing that regular soap and shaving soap are the same cosmetic products. In fact, this is a highly specialized soap, which is prepared according to other technologies and recipes, and also contains other components in the composition. For shaving, the soap should foam well, and the foam should be resistant. This foam is designed to slip blades, moisturize and nourish, protect the skin.
Ordinary soap contains a minimum of components, while shaving soap is prepared from a multi-component composition containing moisturizers and nutrients, oils and esters, cosmetic additives and herbal extracts. The production technology is also significantly different, since such a soap should foam well, but be natural and hypoallergenic.
Preparing shaving soap is advisable for all men, but especially those who have sensitive skin type. In this case, cosmetic finished products can cause allergies, and soap made by yourself will be safe and useful. For oily and normal skin, it is better to use a soap recipe from scratch, but for owners of dry skin, a cream soap recipe from a soap base is more suitable.
Every man can make soap at home. Moreover, if you understand how such a tool differs from ordinary soap, the expediency of such actions becomes clear. Ordinary shaving soap is sold ready-made in specialized stores, but home-made soap will be healthier, more reliable, safer and, ultimately, cheaper than branded products. In addition, in the process of its preparation, a man can realize his fantasies and preferences, choosing the composition of soap.